The original Autococker: a timing-based platform that defined high-end paintball in the 1990s, convertible between pump and semi and endlessly customizable.
Best for: Collectors, Cocker enthusiasts, Mechanical/pump tinkerers
Setup & First-Day Tuning Guide
Inspect the Pump Stroke. Before adding air, pull the pump handle back fully then push forward. On the WGP Autococker (classic) it should move smoothly. Any roughness means the pump rod needs a coat of Dow 33 grease.
Check the Ball Detent. Inspect the ball detent that holds rounds in the breech. A worn detent is the #1 cause of ball drops in pump guns. It should offer clear resistance when pressed.
Dry-Cycle Before Air. With no air and no balls, pump-cycle 10 times to feel the trigger break. Commit to a full pump stroke every rep. Short-stroking is the most common first-day jam and it's technique, not the gun.
Connect Air & Check Fittings. Thread on your HPA or CO2 tank slowly and listen at all connections for any hissing. The WGP Autococker (classic) runs well on either source. HPA gives more consistent velocity.
Chronograph to Your Field Limit. Fire 5 shots across the chronograph. Adjust the velocity screw inside the grip frame. Clockwise raises, counter-clockwise lowers. Target 280 fps (confirm your field's limit). Pump guns typically run ±3-5 fps.
Load & Practice Full Pump Strokes. Load a 10-round tube and fire at a safe backstop. A confident, complete pump stroke eliminates 90% of field jams.
2.8 lbs unloaded. With a full hopper and HPA tank, expect roughly 5.3-6.3 lbs total.
Is the WGP Autococker (classic) worth buying?
The original Autococker: a timing-based platform that defined high-end paintball in the 1990s, convertible between pump and semi and endlessly customizable. Strengths: Iconic, deeply moddable, Strong collector scene. Trade-offs: Timing maintenance required, Vintage parts hunting.