The original Autococker: a timing-based platform that defined high-end paintball in the 1990s, convertible between pump and semi and endlessly customizable.
Best for: Collectors, Cocker enthusiasts, Mechanical/pump tinkerers
Setup & First-Day Tuning Guide
Inspect the Pump Stroke — Before adding air, pull the pump handle back fully then push forward. On the WGP Autococker (classic) it should move smoothly — any roughness means the pump rod needs a coat of Dow 33 grease.
Check the Ball Detent — Inspect the ball detent that holds rounds in the breech. A worn detent is the #1 cause of ball drops in pump guns. It should offer clear resistance when pressed.
Dry-Cycle Before Air — With no air and no balls, pump-cycle 10 times to feel the trigger break. Commit to a full pump stroke every rep — short-stroking is the most common first-day jam and it's technique, not the gun.
Connect Air & Check Fittings — Thread on your HPA or CO2 tank slowly and listen at all connections for any hissing. The WGP Autococker (classic) runs well on either source — HPA gives more consistent velocity.
Chronograph to Your Field Limit — Fire 5 shots across the chronograph. Adjust the velocity screw inside the grip frame — clockwise raises, counter-clockwise lowers. Target 280 fps (confirm your field's limit). Pump guns typically run ±3–5 fps.
Load & Practice Full Pump Strokes — Load a 10-round tube and fire at a safe backstop. A confident, complete pump stroke eliminates 90% of field jams.
2.8 lbs unloaded. With a full hopper and HPA tank, expect roughly 5.3–6.3 lbs total.
Is the WGP Autococker (classic) worth buying?
The original Autococker: a timing-based platform that defined high-end paintball in the 1990s, convertible between pump and semi and endlessly customizable. Strengths: Iconic, deeply moddable, Strong collector scene. Trade-offs: Timing maintenance required, Vintage parts hunting.